Banh xeo exists all over Vietnam, but the version made with whole fresh squid only works where the boats land. In Nha Trang small squid go into the pancake intact rather than chopped, so they keep their snap and their particular sweetness.
Turmeric-tinted rice batter goes thin onto a hot pan, bean sprouts follow, and the pancake is folded once the edge has crisped. These are smaller than the Mekong Delta version — a few make a portion.
You eat them rolled in rice paper with fresh herbs and dipped in sweet-sour fish sauce. The herbs are not a garnish: there is nearly as much greenery as pancake, and that is what balances the fried batter.